The idea that whole foods are good and processed ones are bad is nothing new — an entire supermarket chain built its success on that idea. But not all processed foods are created equal, and increasingly, research has begun to show that some specific kinds may be driving an epidemic of obesity and chronic disease.
Dubbed ultra-processed foods, they have been linked to worse cardiovascular health; a greater risk of cancers, including breast and ovarian; and even disrupted sleep. In May 2023, Swedish researchers published findings that people couldn’t reach a state of deep sleep, the most restorative kind, after eating a diet of mostly ultra-processed foods and that the effects lingered after they had made the switch to a healthier diet.
The thing is, ultra-processed foods are also among the most inexpensive, accessible and arguably delicious items in the supermarket. Plus, they’re among the most ubiquitous: More than 70 percent of the packaged foods Americans eat are considered ultra-processed, and more than half the calories the average American eats comes from them. There’s been a dramatic increase in the consumption of these foods, particularly among adults 60 and older.
It’s probably no surprise that this uptick also corresponds with weight gain. One multinational study showed that normal-weight people who consumed the most processed foods had a 15 percent greater risk of becoming overweight compared with those whose diets contained the least processed foods.
One of the most well-known and telling findings about ultra-processed foods to date was released by the National Institutes of Health (NIH). Researchers randomly assigned people to a diet of either ultra-processed foods or the nutritionally equivalent amount of minimally processed foods for two weeks, then had them switch for two more weeks. While on the first diet, people consumed an extra 500 calories per day, gaining 2 pounds in four weeks. When they ditched the ultra-processed foods, they ate less and lost the same amount of weight.
There’s some speculation that the damage wrecked on waistlines by ultra-processed foods is due to how easy it is to eat them quickly (people in the NIH study were found to eat at a faster rate when on the ultra-processed diet). But the exact cause is still unknown, says Fang Fang Zhang, M.D., a nutritional epidemiologist and associate professor at the Friedman School of Nutrition Science and Policy at Tufts University in Boston. It could be that the combination of ingredients found in ultra-processed foods is somehow harmful.
These are ingredients, such as emulsifiers, stabilizers, and synthetic dyes and flavors, that you won’t find in any home kitchen, Zhang points out. Industrial processing, or chemically manipulating ingredients in a lab to make a food last longer or be more palatable, is what puts the “ultra” in these processed foods. After all, examples like dried herbs and tomato paste are also considered processed foods, but those rank as less processed than any food whose label lists hydrogenated fats or modified starch on the Nova Food Classification System, a tool researchers developed to identify different levels of processing.
With ultra-processed foods so prevalent — and cheap — in Western diets, it’s unlikely anyone can eliminate them completely. And no one says you should. But quality matters, Zhang says. And while most ultra-processed foods are nutritionally poor, some are better than others — think no-sugar-added soy milk or whole-grain breads. If you’re looking to nix some items from your grocery cart, our experts say you should start with these five.
Chips
photo of potato chips on blue background